What is a Solitaire Ring?
A solitaire setting holds a single gemstone in place with four, sometimes six and less frequently eight claws, also known as prongs. This setting is most often used with faceted stones, usually diamonds, as they are the hardest gemstone (10 on the Mohs scale). Softer gems, such as tanzanite (Mohs 6.5), aquamarine or emerald (Mohs 7.5), when set as a ring, will often be encircled by metal to protect them as they can chip when knocked.
The round brilliant cut is the most popular cut for a solitaire ring, although oval, emerald, princess, cushion, marquise, trilliant, heart and pear cut gemstones are all commonly set as solitaires. Where a stone has a pointed finish, such as a marquise, pear or heart-shaped cut, jewellers use a V-shaped claw to protect the point from damage.
The History of the Solitaire Ring
In Roman times, diamonds in their natural form were set in isolation in gold bands, so it can be said that the solitaire setting is almost as old as time. Throughout history, as goldsmithing and lapidary techniques developed, the style of diamond rings evolved from box bezel, quatrefoil, pavé and cluster settings to the four-claw solitaire setting.
In 1886 Charles Lewis Tiffany introduced the Tiffany six-claw setting, which revolutionised diamond jewellery. Historically gemstones had been set low into the band, but Tiffany's design raised the solitaire diamond above the setting, allowing more light to pass through the stone and maximising its fire, brilliance and scintillation.
The six-prong setting was also considered safer, as the failure of a single claw was less likely to result in the loss of the stone than in a four-claw setting. It remains important to inspect the claws on any ring regularly, as wear over time can weaken them. Having claws re-tipped by a jeweller is a worthwhile investment to help prevent the loss of a gemstone.
Why Choose a Solitaire Ring?
Solitaire settings remain popular because they focus all the attention on the gemstone itself. The setting does not distract from the stone's clarity, cut, colour or carat weight, and solitaire rings are generally easier to clean than more intricate designs.
Many jewellers clean diamond jewellery using ultrasonic cleaners, although warm soapy water and a soft brush remain a safe and effective way to care for most solitaire rings.
Among the most famous examples is the smallest of the nine Cullinan diamonds, a pear-shaped 4.4-carat stone set as a solitaire for Queen Mary in 1911. Queen Elizabeth II's engagement ring featured an eight-claw setting securing a three-carat diamond, with eight claws often favoured for the way they enhance the roundness of a brilliant-cut stone.
What is a Cluster Ring?
A cluster setting surrounds a larger central gemstone with smaller stones. This design increases the overall size of the setting, allowing smaller gemstones to create the appearance of a much larger ring.
Cluster settings may also be chosen where the quality of the central stone is not sufficient to stand alone. The surrounding gemstones frame the centre stone and can also provide an additional layer of protection around softer gemstones.
Because the stones sit closely together, cluster jewellery can be more difficult to clean, with dirt collecting between the settings. Cluster rings also contain many more claws, which may catch with wear. Regular maintenance and re-tipping help reduce the risk of losing stones or damaging the setting.
The History of Cluster Rings
Cluster settings have been seen in rings since the 1600s, typically using smaller stones arranged in round or oval designs. They became particularly popular during the Georgian period (1714-1837), before becoming known as flower rings during the Victorian era.
During the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s the design evolved into bolder, more geometric forms. Contemporary jewellers continue to draw inspiration from these historic styles, with designers such as Jessica McCormack creating modern interpretations of Georgian cluster rings.
Perhaps the most famous cluster-set engagement ring today is that worn by Catherine, Princess of Wales, originally given to Diana Spencer on her engagement to the then Prince Charles in 1981.
