Jewellery

Round Brilliant Cut vs Cushion Cut: What's the Difference?

19 July 2026

Veronica Olszowska

Choosing a gemstone is about more than colour or carat weight. The cut has the greatest influence on how a stone reflects light and ultimately how it looks when worn. Two of the world's most popular cuts are the round brilliant and the cushion cut. While both are commonly associated with diamonds, they are equally suited to coloured gemstones including sapphires, rubies, emeralds and aquamarines.

Quick answer: The round brilliant cut is designed to maximise brilliance, fire and scintillation, while the cushion cut offers a softer, more romantic appearance with broader flashes of light. Neither is better, they simply create different visual effects.

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What is a Round Brilliant Cut?

The round brilliant cut was devised in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky, a mathematician and gemmologist who sought to discover the exact proportions needed to maximise a gemstone's beauty. His discoveries continue to influence gemstone cutting today.

There are four stages to gemstone cutting: designing, dividing, shaping, and faceting and polishing. Only diamond can cut diamond and it can take skilled cutters months to determine how best to cut a particular stone, balancing maximum yield with optimum beauty.

When creating a round brilliant cut, the stone is divided and shaped into two sections: the upper crown and the lower pavilion. The crown is faceted to maximise the dispersion of light through the stone, while the pavilion is cut to enhance brilliance. If these proportions are incorrect, the crown and pavilion facets do not work together effectively and some of the stone's potential beauty can be lost.

The angle of the pavilion facets dictates brilliance, the reflection of white light, and was found to be most effective at around 41°. The crown angle should ideally be between 30° and 35°. A classic round brilliant cut has 57 facets, with 33 on the crown and 24 on the pavilion. The pavilion terminates in a point called the culet, which may be polished flat to create a 58th facet.

A well-cut stone is always a balance between brilliance, fire and scintillation, and the round brilliant cut remains the finest compromise between these three qualities. This perhaps explains why around 75 to 80% of diamonds used in jewellery today are cut in this style.

What is a Cushion Cut?

The cushion cut, traditionally known as the Old Mine Cut, combines round and square forms to create the soft "pillow" shape that gives the cut its name. Popular for centuries, it can be fashioned as either a square or rectangular cushion.

The cushion cut is a fancy cut and is sometimes described as the "candlelight" cut because of the way its larger facets catch and reflect light. These broad facets create bold flashes of sparkle rather than the intense brilliance associated with the round brilliant cut. Modern cushion cuts generally feature smaller facets, increasing brilliance while retaining the characteristic softness of the shape.

Some of the world's most famous gemstones feature the cushion cut. The Cullinan II forms the centrepiece of the Imperial State Crown, made in 1937. In 2017, Prince Harry chose a cushion-cut diamond from Botswana for Meghan Markle's engagement ring, while Lady Gaga wore Tiffany & Co.'s extraordinary 128.54-carat fancy yellow cushion-cut diamond to the 2019 Academy Awards. More recently, Taylor Swift's elongated antique cushion-cut engagement ring has renewed interest in the cut among a new generation of collectors.

Round Brilliant vs Cushion Cut

The round brilliant cut is engineered to maximise a gemstone's brilliance, fire and scintillation. The cushion cut offers a softer, more romantic character, favouring broad flashes of light over maximum brilliance.

Rather than choosing a gemstone solely for its carat weight, colour or clarity, considering its cut can reveal just as much about your personal taste. Whether you prefer the precision of a round brilliant or the timeless charm of a cushion cut, each offers its own distinctive beauty.

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Frequently Asked Questions

The round brilliant cut is designed to maximise brilliance, fire and scintillation, so it generally sparkles more than a cushion cut.

Cushion cuts can sometimes be more affordable per carat than round brilliant cuts because less rough material may be lost during cutting. However, price is influenced far more by the quality of the gemstone than its shape.

Not at all. The cushion cut has been popular for centuries and continues to be favoured today for its soft, romantic appearance. It combines antique charm with enduring appeal.

Cushion cuts can appear slightly larger face-up than round brilliant cuts of the same carat weight, particularly elongated cushion cuts. However, this depends on the stone's proportions and setting.

Round brilliant cuts typically require more of the original rough gemstone to be removed in order to achieve their ideal proportions. Their enduring popularity and exceptional light performance also contribute to higher prices.

The Old Mine Cut is the historic predecessor to the modern cushion cut. Popular during the 18th and 19th centuries, it features a higher crown, larger facets and a softer, candlelit sparkle that remains highly sought after by collectors.

Both are excellent choices. Round brilliant cuts offer maximum sparkle and timeless appeal, while cushion cuts have a softer, vintage-inspired character. The best choice depends on your personal style and the look you prefer.

Yes. Well-cut cushion gemstones can hold their value exceptionally well, particularly in fine diamonds and important coloured gemstones. As with any gemstone, quality, rarity, colour, clarity and craftsmanship have a greater impact on value than the cut alone.

Round Brilliant Cut vs Cushion Cut: What's the Difference?

Discover our Jewellery Department

What is a Round Brilliant Cut?

What is a Cushion Cut?

Round Brilliant vs Cushion Cut

Veronica Olszowska

Frequently Asked Questions

Which cut sparkles more?

Are cushion cut gemstones more affordable?

Is the cushion cut old-fashioned?

Which cut looks bigger?

Why are round brilliant cuts often more expensive?

What is an Old Mine Cut?

Which cut is best for an engagement ring?

Do cushion cut gemstones hold their value?