Jewellery

The History of Engagement Rings

18 December 2024

Ruth Davis

From Royal Engagements to Modern Traditions

The engagement ring is one of the world's most recognisable symbols of love and commitment, yet the tradition as we know it is surprisingly modern. While rings have marked betrothals for centuries, the diamond engagement ring only became widely established during the twentieth century.

From medieval Europe and royal courts to Hollywood icons and contemporary jewellery design, engagement rings have continually evolved to reflect changing fashions, craftsmanship and cultural ideals. Today, whether set with a diamond, sapphire, emerald or another precious gemstone, many of the styles we recognise can trace their origins to remarkable historical examples.

Request a Free Auction Valuation

Find out how much your Jewellery could be worth at auction with a free online valuation

When Did Engagement Rings Begin?

Rings have long been exchanged as symbols of commitment, with examples dating back to the Roman Empire. These early rings were often made from iron or gold and represented a formal agreement between families rather than the romantic gesture we associate with engagement today.

The first recorded diamond engagement ring is widely believed to have been presented in 1477, when Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave a diamond ring to Mary of Burgundy. Whether this single proposal established a lasting tradition is open to debate, but it remains one of the earliest documented examples of a diamond being chosen to mark a marriage.

For centuries afterwards, engagement rings took many forms. Diamonds were reserved for royalty and the aristocracy, while coloured gemstones, pearls and enamelled rings were equally fashionable choices.

How Diamond Engagement Rings Became the Tradition

Although diamonds had long been admired, they did not become the expected choice for engagement rings until much later.

The discovery of vast diamond deposits in South Africa during the nineteenth century transformed the jewellery trade. Increased supply was matched by careful marketing, most notably by De Beers, whose famous "A Diamond is Forever" campaign in 1947 reshaped public perception of the engagement ring.

The campaign linked diamonds with permanence and commitment, helping establish the diamond solitaire as the classic engagement ring design. More than seventy years later, it remains one of the most enduring influences on the jewellery market.

Royal Engagement Rings That Changed Fashion

Royal engagement rings have often influenced wider jewellery trends.

Queen Victoria

Prince Albert's engagement ring for Queen Victoria was far from conventional. Rather than a diamond solitaire, he presented her with a gold snake ring set with an emerald, Victoria's birthstone. During the nineteenth century the serpent symbolised eternal love and wisdom, making it an appropriate and deeply personal choice.

Victorian serpent rings remain highly collectable today and continue to inspire contemporary jewellers.

Queen Elizabeth II

Prince Philip proposed with a platinum diamond ring created using stones from a tiara that belonged to his mother, Princess Alice of Battenberg. Elegant and understated, the design demonstrated that simplicity and exceptional quality could create a timeless engagement ring.

Diana, Princess of Wales

Few engagement rings have proved more influential than Diana's oval Ceylon sapphire surrounded by fourteen diamonds. Chosen from Garrard's existing designs rather than commissioned exclusively, the ring challenged expectations at the time.

Its influence only grew when it was later presented by Prince William to Catherine, Princess of Wales, helping inspire renewed interest in sapphire engagement rings.

Department

Jewellery

Hollywood's Most Famous Engagement Rings

Cinema and celebrity have played an equally important role in shaping engagement ring fashions. Grace Kelly's emerald-cut diamond ring, presented by Prince Rainier III of Monaco, remains one of the defining jewellery designs of the twentieth century. Jackie Kennedy's diamond and emerald ring by Van Cleef & Arpels demonstrated that coloured gemstones could be every bit as glamorous as diamonds.

Elizabeth Taylor famously rejected convention throughout her life, receiving not only extraordinary diamond rings but also necklaces and bracelets as symbols of love. Her collection continues to influence collectors and jewellery designers alike.

Even Marilyn Monroe's diamond eternity ring, given by Joe DiMaggio, showed that there has never been a single formula for the perfect engagement ring.

Beyond the Diamond Solitaire

Although the diamond solitaire remains the classic choice, engagement rings have never followed a single design.

Throughout history, coloured gemstones, unusual settings and distinctive cuts have reflected the personalities of those who wore them. Emeralds, sapphires and rubies have all enjoyed moments of popularity, while three-stone rings, cluster rings and toi et moi designs continue to be reinterpreted by contemporary jewellers.Many of today's trends are, in reality, revivals of styles first seen centuries ago.

Buying Vintage Engagement Rings at Auction

Auction houses regularly handle engagement rings spanning more than two centuries of jewellery history. From Georgian and Victorian rings to Art Deco masterpieces and signed designs by Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and Van Cleef & Arpels, buying at auction offers the opportunity to discover pieces that combine exceptional craftsmanship with individual character.

Whether you're drawn to an antique diamond solitaire, a sapphire cluster inspired by royal jewellery or a distinctive designer ring, the qualities that have always defined great engagement rings remain unchanged: beautiful gemstones, thoughtful design and expert craftsmanship.

Frequently Asked Questions

Although engagement rings have existed for centuries, diamond engagement rings became widely popular during the twentieth century following the success of De Beers' "A Diamond is Forever" campaign.

The earliest recorded diamond engagement ring was presented by Archduke Maximilian of Austria to Mary of Burgundy in 1477.

Diamonds became associated with permanence, rarity and commitment during the twentieth century and remain the most popular choice for engagement rings today.

Yes. Coloured gemstones have been used in engagement rings for centuries. Sapphire engagement rings became especially popular following the engagement of Diana, Princess of Wales.

Yes. Auction houses regularly offer antique, vintage and designer engagement rings, often featuring exceptional craftsmanship and gemstones that are difficult to find in modern jewellery.

Specialist

Ruth Davis

Associate Director, Head of Jewellery | Edinburgh

The History of Engagement Rings

From Royal Engagements to Modern Traditions

Request a Free Auction Valuation

When Did Engagement Rings Begin?

How Diamond Engagement Rings Became the Tradition

Royal Engagement Rings That Changed Fashion

Queen Victoria

Queen Elizabeth II

Diana, Princess of Wales

Jewellery

Hollywood's Most Famous Engagement Rings

Beyond the Diamond Solitaire

Buying Vintage Engagement Rings at Auction

Frequently Asked Questions

When did engagement rings become popular?

What was the first diamond engagement ring?

Why are diamond engagement rings so popular?

Are sapphire engagement rings traditional?

Can I buy a vintage engagement ring at auction?

Ruth Davis