Jewellery

How Cartier Made Aquamarines Desirable

10 July 2026

Sarah Duncan

Quick Answer: Aquamarines had long been admired, but it was Cartier's elegant jewellery of the early 1930s that helped establish the gemstone as a symbol of modern luxury. By pairing exceptional aquamarines with platinum and diamonds during the Art Deco period, Cartier elevated the stone from a relatively overlooked gem to one of the most fashionable choices of the twentieth century.

Few jewellery houses have shaped collecting tastes quite like Cartier. Throughout its history, the maison has introduced new design ideas, embraced unexpected materials and elevated overlooked gemstones into objects of international desire. One of the clearest examples is aquamarine.

Today, aquamarines are among the world's most recognisable coloured gemstones, admired for their remarkable clarity and cool blue colour. Yet during the early twentieth century they were often overshadowed by diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds. It took a combination of changing fashions, economic circumstances and Cartier's extraordinary eye for design to transform public perception.

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Were Aquamarines Always Valuable?

Aquamarines have been prized for centuries.

A member of the beryl family, alongside emerald, the gemstone takes its name from the Latin aqua marina, meaning "water of the sea". Historically, sailors believed aquamarines offered protection during voyages, while jewellers valued the stone for its exceptional transparency and ability to be cut into large, impressive gems.

Despite these qualities, aquamarines occupied a relatively modest place within the jewellery market during the early twentieth century. The greatest prestige remained with diamonds and the traditional precious coloured gemstones, leaving aquamarines admired but seldom regarded as the first choice for important jewellery.

Cartier's Vision During the Great Depression

The Wall Street Crash of 1929 dramatically altered attitudes towards luxury.

At a time when displays of conspicuous wealth felt increasingly out of step with the global economic climate, jewellery fashions began to shift. Bold displays of diamonds, rubies and emeralds became less desirable, creating an opportunity for something altogether more understated.

According to jewellery historians, Cartier quietly acquired exceptional aquamarines over several years, carefully building a stock of outstanding stones before revealing a remarkable new collection.

When Cartier unveiled its aquamarine jewellery in London during the early 1930s, the response was immediate. Set in platinum and often accented with diamonds, these elegant creations perfectly captured the sophisticated restraint that defined the later years of the Art Deco movement.

Why Aquamarines Were Perfect for Art Deco

Aquamarines seemed almost designed for the Art Deco aesthetic.

Their exceptional clarity allowed cutters to create large emerald cuts, step cuts and geometric forms that echoed the clean architectural lines of the period. Combined with platinum, the gemstones produced jewellery that felt crisp, modern and effortlessly elegant.

Unlike richly coloured emeralds or rubies, aquamarines offered a lighter palette that complemented the streamlined fashions of the 1930s while retaining a sense of luxury.

It was this combination of subtle colour, technical precision and contemporary design that helped establish aquamarines as one of the defining gemstones of the period.

Other Jewellers Soon Followed

Cartier's success did not go unnoticed.

As demand for aquamarines increased, other leading jewellers began incorporating the gemstone into necklaces, bracelets, brooches and cocktail rings. Throughout the 1930s and into the post-war years, aquamarines remained highly fashionable, appearing in increasingly ambitious jewellery designs featuring exceptionally large stones.

Many of the finest surviving examples date from this period, demonstrating both the quality of the gemstones available and the remarkable craftsmanship of the era.

Did you know: The name aquamarine comes from the Latin aqua marina, meaning "water of the sea", a reference to the gemstone's distinctive blue colour.

Aquamarines at Auction Today

Nearly a century later, Art Deco and mid-century aquamarine jewellery continues to attract collectors around the world.

At Lyon & Turnbull, exceptional aquamarine jewellery regularly generates strong interest at auction. A striking 1940s aquamarine necklace featuring more than 300 carats of aquamarines recently sold well above its pre-sale estimate, demonstrating the continued demand for beautifully designed examples, whether signed by Cartier or another leading maker.

While provenance and maker remain important, collectors increasingly appreciate outstanding gemstones, elegant design and exceptional craftsmanship in their own right.

Why Collectors Continue to Love Aquamarines

Aquamarines appeal for many of the same reasons today as they did during the Art Deco period.

Collectors often look for:

Rich yet delicate blue colour
Excellent transparency
Large, well-cut stones
Platinum settings
Art Deco and mid-century designs
Signed pieces by important jewellery houses
Strong provenance and original condition

These qualities continue to make aquamarines one of the most versatile and wearable coloured gemstones found at auction.

"The finest aquamarines are valued not only for their colour but also for their exceptional transparency. Large stones with crisp cutting and excellent clarity remain particularly sought after, especially when combined with elegant period design."

- Sarah Duncan, Head of Jewellery, London

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Jewellery

Frequently Asked Questions

Cartier recognised that aquamarines perfectly suited the clean geometry and restrained elegance of the Art Deco movement. Their exceptional clarity and pale blue colour offered a sophisticated alternative to more traditional precious gemstones.

Yes. Value depends on colour, clarity, size, cut, provenance and maker. Exceptional Art Deco aquamarines and signed jewellery by leading houses can achieve strong prices at auction.

Collectors generally favour gemstones with a rich, even blue colour combined with outstanding transparency and minimal inclusions.

Although aquamarines were known long before the 1920s, they became closely associated with Art Deco jewellery after leading houses such as Cartier embraced the gemstone during the early 1930s.

Yes. Lyon & Turnbull regularly offers antique, Art Deco and modern aquamarine jewellery in its specialist jewellery auctions and provides complimentary auction valuations.

Sarah J. Duncan, Head of Jewellery - London | Lyon & Turnbull

Specialist

Sarah Duncan

Head of Jewellery | London

How Cartier Made Aquamarines Desirable

Got Something to Sell?

Were Aquamarines Always Valuable?

Cartier's Vision During the Great Depression

Why Aquamarines Were Perfect for Art Deco

Other Jewellers Soon Followed

Aquamarines at Auction Today

Why Collectors Continue to Love Aquamarines

See More on Social

Jewellery

Frequently Asked Questions

Why did Cartier use aquamarines?

Are aquamarines valuable?

What colour aquamarine is most valuable?

Is aquamarine an Art Deco gemstone?

Can I sell aquamarine jewellery at auction?

Sarah Duncan