Looking back on our 2024 season of Jewellery auctions that took place across the UK, our Jewellery team has selected a few of their favourite pieces.
Here our team shares why these wonderful pieces were so memorable.
23 January 2025
Lyon & Turnbull
Looking back on our 2024 season of Jewellery auctions that took place across the UK, our Jewellery team has selected a few of their favourite pieces.
Here our team shares why these wonderful pieces were so memorable.
“Last year we were privileged to be able to present The Cairncross collection; a well known name in the Scottish jewellery, and a firm we had a good relationship with for a long time, I was so happy to be able to play a part in the last chapter of their illustrious history. However, handling the Abernethy pearl is a true career highlight, Scottish river pearls are such a magical part of Scotland’s natural and material history; to get the opportunity to handle and spend so much time with a specimen which is regularly features in the top three list of the words most famous pearls, and to be responsible for finding its new home, was truly special.”
The largest Scottish river pearl found in living history, the Abernethy Pearl is a remarkably perfect example, found in 1967 by Scotland’s last pearl fisherman, William (Bill) Abernethy.
It is believed the Abernethy Pearl could have been quietly growing in its mussel for over 80 years before it had been found by Bill.
Today the Abernethy Pearl represents a unique part of Scotland’s natural and social history, but is also a symbol of the challenges ahead in terms of protecting its natural landscape and environmental heritage. There will not be another specimen of its like in our lifetime, and while its unique quality and rarity form a large part of its value; those qualities should also stand as a clarion call to protect and nurture the species and our natural heritage.
Discover more about the pearl ⇒
“This Cartier bracelet will stay with me for a while. Not only was it such a pleasure to help this wonderful family bring their own history to light but holding a bracelet that was worn on so many momentous political occasions was really special. Its very hard to beat the works of Cartier and Georges Lenfant and this was a masterpiece.”
This bracelet appears to have been a favourite of Yolette Leconte Magloire's, First Lady of Haiti from 1950 to 1956, for State Visits and formal political occasions. Amongst other events, newsreel footage from 1955 shows Leconte wearing this Cartier bracelet while with U.S. President Eisenhower and his wife Mamie at a formal occasion.
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“This a coral panel bracelet was a favourite partly because of the way it sounded when it was worn, the panels clinked together in a really pleasing way. Another reason is of course because it’s coral, such a unique material and one that we may not see for very much longer used in jewellery.”
“Sometimes it is simply the design that will grab me, other times the more I learn about the designer the more intriguing a piece will become. Barbara Cartlidge once said “I see jewellery as a very integral part of what people need, aside from food and shelter” - I couldn't agree more!”
Barbara Cartlidge was born in Berlin but in 1938 she and her family escaped Germany and settled in England.
She attended Central School of Arts and Crafts (later Central St Martins) from 1957 – 1960 where she studied jewellery design. In 1959 she registered her brand and then in 1960 her breakthrough came with a solo exhibition at Heal’s in London.
In an article by Tamsin Lesley in Harper’s Bazaar in 1968 she said,
“My predominant thing is rings because I like wearing them best”. She went on to say “invariably it is the stone that decides the design I will use [just] about any stone, provided it looks exciting. I am not terribly concerned about the cost of it – if it has some sort of life, some magic, some mystique about it”.
Discover more about Barbara Cartlidge ⇒
“This was an incredible example to find in exceptional condition and from such an important maker that was previously unknown to the market. I doubt I will ever see another as impressive.”
Working in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, Ilbery first established his workshop at Goswell Street in the city of London. It has been argued that he was the inventor of the caliber typical of these "Chinese" watches. (Alfred Chapuis, 'La Montre Chinoise', pg 180)
This example features the decorated style of movement with duplex escapement with raised barrel, characteristic of watches crafted for the Asian market.
The cases Ilbery used for his Asian market watches were always of the highest quality. He worked with some of the best Genevan enamelers of the period such as Jean-Francois-Victor Dupont and Jean-Louis Richter.
Discover more about the watch ⇒