Islamic & Indian Art

Indian Jewellery through History

13 October 2026

Neil Graham

Indian jewellery has a history stretching back more than 5,000 years,. From the carnelian beads of the Indus Valley Civilisation to the elaborate diamond and emerald jewellery of the Mughal courts, jewellery in India has long represented far more than personal adornment.

Throughout its history, Indian jewellery has evolved from a form of personal adornment into a sophisticated visual language of status, spiritual protection, religious belief and wealth preservation. Its distinctive techniques, including Kundan gemstone setting, Meenakari enamelling and the use of uncut diamonds, continue to influence jewellery design today.

What Is Traditional Indian Jewellery?

Traditional Indian jewellery encompasses a wide range of ornaments produced across the Indian subcontinent, including gold necklaces, earrings, bangles, rings, anklets, head ornaments and elaborate gemstone-set pieces.

Its designs vary considerably according to region, period and cultural tradition. Gold has historically been particularly important, valued for its beauty, durability and association with prosperity. Gemstones including diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires and pearls have also played significant roles.

Among the most recognisable forms are Kundan jewellery, Polki diamond jewellery, Meenakari enamelled ornaments and South Indian temple jewellery.

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Ancient Indian Jewellery

Indus Valley Jewellery (c. 3300 - 1300 BCE)

During the ancient eras (c. 3300 BCE – 300 CE), Indian jewellery evolved from basic adornment into a sophisticated royal art. The origins of Indian jewellery can be traced to the Indus Valley Civilisation, who pioneered early gold work and carnelian bead making, which Mauryan and Sunga craftsmen later advanced using metal stamping and repoussé techniques.

Beads were carefully drilled, polished and arranged into necklaces and other ornaments, demonstrating a remarkable understanding of materials and decorative techniques.

Mauryan and Sunga Jewellery (c. 322 - 73 BCE)

During Mauryan and Sunga dynasties metalworking became more intricate. Gold and silver ornaments were heavily stamped and repousséed, with popular motifs including stylised animals, leaves, and Mother Goddess figures. Sculptural representations from this period provide valuable evidence of jewellery styles, depicting elaborate necklaces, earrings, armlets and girdles worn by both men and women.

Gupta Jewellery: The Golden Age (c. 320 - 550 CE)

During the Gupta Empire also as Known as the Golden Age, jewellery became lighter and more elegant. Artisans mastered the art of stringing pearls (mukta-vali) and setting precious gemstones based on the Navaratna (nine auspicious gems) planetary configuration. Ornaments became increasingly sophisticated, with elegant goldwork, pearl necklaces and carefully arranged gemstone settings.

Did you know? India's Golconda mines were the world's most important source of diamonds before major deposits were discovered in Brazil in the 18th century. Some of history's most celebrated diamonds, including the Koh-i-Noor and Hope Diamond, originated in India.

Mughal Jewellery (1526 - 1857)

The Mughal era (c. 1526 - 1857 CE) revolutionised Indian jewellery. Driven by an imperial obsession with raw luxury, the Mughals fused sophisticated Persian court refinement with India's supreme craftsmanship. Royal workshops engineered the groundbreaking Kundan technique, locking raw, uncut diamonds into hyper-pure gold foil without a single prong, while hiding secret, blazing fields of Meenakari enamel work on the reverse sides.

Out went static, traditional figures; in came a dynamic world of sweeping geometric arabesques, symmetrical patterns, and lush, hyper-detailed floral motifs. Emperors flaunted colossal emeralds and spinels micro-carved with their own royal titles, turning wearable treasure into the ultimate, power-packed statement of absolute dynastic dominance and artistic genius.

Kundan Jewellery: The Art of Setting Gemstones in Gold

Kundan is a traditional Indian jewellery technique in which gemstones are secured using highly refined gold. Rather than relying on conventional prong settings, craftsmen use layers of malleable gold to hold stones within carefully prepared settings. The technique allows gemstones to be arranged closely together, creating richly decorated surfaces.

Kundan jewellery became particularly associated with Mughal and Rajput courts, where it was used to produce elaborate necklaces, earrings, bracelets and ceremonial ornaments.

Polki Jewellery: The Beauty of Uncut Diamonds

Polki jewellery incorporates natural diamonds that have not been cut into the modern brilliant forms familiar today. These diamonds retain much of their original character, with relatively flat surfaces and irregular outlines that produce a softer appearance than modern faceted stones. Frequently mounted using Kundan techniques, Polki diamonds became an important feature of traditional Indian jewellery.

Meenakari Jewellery: Enamelled Goldwork

Meenakari is the art of decorating metal surfaces with coloured enamel. In Mughal and later Indian jewellery, enamel decoration was frequently applied to the reverse of gemstone-set ornaments, creating intricate patterns that might remain hidden when the jewellery was worn. Floral motifs, birds and geometric designs were particularly popular. Jaipur became an important centre for Meenakari craftsmanship, and the technique remains closely associated with traditional Indian jewellery production.

Mughal Gemstones and Royal Patronage

Mughal emperors and nobles commissioned extraordinary jewellery incorporating diamonds, emeralds, spinels, rubies and pearls. Large gemstones were sometimes engraved with imperial names, titles or dates, transforming them into objects of dynastic significance.

Carved emeralds, inscribed spinels and elaborate gemstone-set ornaments demonstrate the importance of jewellery as a symbol of political authority and personal wealth. Floral motifs, symmetrical arrangements and designs influenced by Persian art became defining characteristics of Mughal jewellery.

^{Illustrated below: Joyaux Dynastiques, Hôtel de la Marine Collier, Chatsam}^{CC BY-SA 4.0}^{, via Wikimedia Commons | Bhupinder Singh of Patiala. National Portrait Gallery, London, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons | Patiala Necklace, 1928, Cartier, Paris. Part of the Cartier Exhibition at V&A Museum SpeakingArch -}^{CC BY-SA 4.0}^{, via Wikimedia Commons}

Colonial Fusion and the Princely States (c. 1750 - 1947)

The eighteenth, nineteenth and early twentieth centuries witnessed significant exchanges between Indian jewellery traditions and European design. Indian rulers, including Maharajas and Nawabs, possessed extraordinary collections of diamonds, emeralds, rubies and pearls, many of which had been accumulated over generations.

As European jewellery houses became increasingly influential, Indian patrons began commissioning new settings for their historic gemstones.

Indian Royal Jewellery and European Design

Leading European jewellers, including Cartier, Boucheron and Chaumet, received commissions from Indian princely families. These commissions frequently combined traditional Indian gemstones with European techniques and contemporary design movements, including Art Deco.

One of the most celebrated examples is the Patiala Necklace, created by Cartier in 1928 for Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala. The necklace incorporated an extraordinary collection of diamonds and became a symbol of the relationship between Indian royal patronage and European jewellery design.

Indian Jewellery After Independence (1947 - Present)

Following Indian independence in 1947, traditional jewellery continued to occupy an important place in family life, religious ceremonies and cultural celebrations.

Bridal Jewellery and Streedhan

Jewellery remains a significant component of Indian wedding traditions, particularly gold ornaments passed between generations. The concept of Streedhan refers to property belonging to a woman, traditionally including jewellery and other gifts received before, during or after marriage.

Gold jewellery can therefore hold both financial and personal significance, functioning as a form of wealth preservation as well as an expression of family heritage. High-purity gold, particularly 22-carat gold, remains popular in many traditional Indian jewellery designs.

The Revival of Traditional Indian Jewellery

Contemporary Indian jewellers continue to draw inspiration from historic craftsmanship. Techniques including Kundan, Polki, Meenakari and temple jewellery are frequently reinterpreted through modern designs, lighter settings and contemporary forms.

How to Identify Antique Indian Jewellery

Identifying antique Indian jewellery requires an understanding of traditional materials, gemstone settings, decorative techniques and regional styles. Specialists examine the construction of an ornament, including the quality of the goldwork, methods of gemstone setting and evidence of historic craftsmanship.

Handmade settings, enamel decoration, traditional gemstone cuts and signs of age may provide useful clues, although none can independently establish authenticity. Later jewellery frequently reproduces historic Mughal and Rajput designs, making careful examination essential.

Provenance, historic photographs, family ownership records and original documentation can also help establish the age and significance of a piece.

What Makes Antique Indian Jewellery Valuable?

The value of antique Indian jewellery depends on several factors, including age, rarity, craftsmanship, gemstone quality, condition and provenance. Jewellery associated with Mughal or princely collections can attract particular interest, especially when accompanied by documented ownership histories. Fine Kundan settings, historic Polki diamonds, elaborate Meenakari decoration and exceptional carved gemstones may also contribute to an object's desirability.

However, age alone does not determine value. The quality of the materials, originality of the design and condition of the piece are equally important. For collectors, understanding the distinction between historic jewellery and later revival pieces is essential when assessing potential auction value.

Collecting and Valuing Indian Jewellery with Lyon & Turnbull

From ancient gold ornaments and Mughal gemstone settings to the remarkable commissions of India's princely states, Indian jewellery reflects centuries of artistic innovation, cultural exchange and exceptional craftsmanship. Lyon & Turnbull's specialists can provide advice on the identification, history and valuation of antique Indian jewellery, drawing upon expertise in jewellery and Islamic & Indian Art.

Whether you are researching an inherited piece, considering selling historic jewellery or seeking to understand the significance of a family collection, our specialists can provide confidential guidance and a complimentary auction valuation.

Department

Islamic & Indian Art

Specialist

Neil Graham

Associate Specialist, Islamic & Indian Art

Frequently Asked Questions About Indian Jewellery

Traditional Indian jewellery encompasses several distinctive styles, including Kundan, Polki, Meenakari and temple jewellery. These terms describe different materials, techniques and regional traditions rather than a single type of ornament. Indian jewellery also includes necklaces, bangles, earrings, rings, anklets and elaborate ceremonial pieces.

Kundan refers to a traditional technique of setting gemstones using highly refined gold, while Polki refers to natural diamonds that have not been cut into modern brilliant forms. Polki diamonds are frequently mounted using Kundan techniques, meaning the two terms describe different aspects of the same piece of jewellery.

Documented provenance can significantly influence the value of Islamic art. Records of previous ownership, historic collection labels, exhibition histories and original purchase documentation may help establish authenticity and historical significance, giving prospective buyers greater confidence.

Mughal jewellery refers to ornaments produced during or influenced by the Mughal Empire, which ruled much of the Indian subcontinent between the sixteenth and nineteenth centuries. It is particularly associated with elaborate goldwork, diamonds, emeralds, carved gemstones, Kundan settings and colourful enamel decoration.

Gold has held considerable cultural, religious and financial significance in India for thousands of years. Traditionally associated with prosperity, good fortune and wealth preservation, gold jewellery is frequently given during weddings, religious celebrations and important family occasions.

Indian jewellery-making traditions extend back more than 5,000 years to the Indus Valley Civilisation. Archaeological discoveries reveal early goldwork, bead-making and metal ornaments, while later dynasties developed increasingly sophisticated gemstone settings and decorative techniques.

Antique Indian jewellery can be valuable, particularly when it incorporates exceptional gemstones, fine craftsmanship or documented historic provenance. Mughal jewellery, princely commissions and finely executed Kundan or enamelled ornaments may attract significant collector interest. Values vary according to rarity, condition, materials and market demand.

Antique Indian jewellery can be offered through specialist auction houses with expertise in historic jewellery and Indian works of art. Lyon & Turnbull provides auction valuations for jewellery, gemstones and decorative objects, with specialists able to advise on provenance, craftsmanship and potential market value.

Indian Jewellery through History

What Is Traditional Indian Jewellery?

Looking to Sell?

Ancient Indian Jewellery

Indus Valley Jewellery (c. 3300 - 1300 BCE)

Mauryan and Sunga Jewellery (c. 322 - 73 BCE)

Gupta Jewellery: The Golden Age (c. 320 - 550 CE)

Mughal Jewellery (1526 - 1857)

Kundan Jewellery: The Art of Setting Gemstones in Gold

Polki Jewellery: The Beauty of Uncut Diamonds

Meenakari Jewellery: Enamelled Goldwork

Mughal Gemstones and Royal Patronage

Colonial Fusion and the Princely States (c. 1750 - 1947)

Indian Royal Jewellery and European Design

Indian Jewellery After Independence (1947 - Present)

Bridal Jewellery and Streedhan

The Revival of Traditional Indian Jewellery

How to Identify Antique Indian Jewellery

What Makes Antique Indian Jewellery Valuable?

Collecting and Valuing Indian Jewellery with Lyon & Turnbull

Islamic & Indian Art

Neil Graham

Frequently Asked Questions About Indian Jewellery

What is traditional Indian jewellery called?

What is the difference between Kundan and Polki jewellery?

Does provenance increase the value of Islamic art?

What is Mughal jewellery?

Why is gold important in Indian jewellery?

How old is Indian jewellery?

Is antique Indian jewellery valuable?

Where can I sell antique Indian jewellery?