16 May 2025
Kate Jolley
When examining the history of carved gems, cameos and intaglios are frequently researched together. This is a natural pairing, as the two forms of gem engraving are visual inverses.
Our Associate Jewellery specialist Kate Jolley explores their differences, similarities and enduring appeal at auctions.
Intaglios are incised into the surface of a gemstone, creating a negative space or recessed design, while cameos are carved in relief, with the subject raised from a flat background. Though both rely on reductive carving techniques, the required skillsets and artistic approaches differ significantly.
Some of the earliest known intaglios are cylinder seals—beads carved with intricate imagery that were rolled onto wet clay to produce positive relief impressions. These objects served dual functions: practical (sealing containers or documents as a personal identifier) and symbolic (acting as talismans). Frequently worn as jewellery or clothing fasteners, these ancient seals often feature images of deities, animals, or agricultural scenes. Merchants used them to safeguard goods—both physically, as a tamper-proof seal, and spiritually, with protective iconography.
Over centuries, intaglio carving evolved dramatically. As knowledge of anatomy and perspective advanced, so too did the artistry of gem engravers. Detailed figures, fine inscriptions, and even dynamic battle scenes began appearing in small-scale hardstone carvings. You can see excellent examples of this craftsmanship in several lots within our June 2025 Jewellery auction, including depictions of chariot warriors and classical female figures - hallmarks of high-quality antique intaglios.
A unique feature of intaglios is that their full design is only revealed in impression—an aspect that adds mystery and charm. For this reason, museums often display both the carved gemstone and a wax or clay impression. Without it, the image can be difficult to interpret, especially in ancient or highly detailed examples.
In contrast, cameos offer immediate visual clarity. Carved in relief, cameos are created by removing the background material to reveal a raised design. A helpful memory device: “cameos come out, intaglios go in.” While shell cameos are the most familiar form today, the earliest cameos were carved in stone, often using banded hardstone to create a layered effect. This method requires remarkable precision: cutting too deeply or encountering an irregular colour layer can compromise the visual impact.
The technical challenge in carving a cameo lies in manipulating the natural strata of the stone to create contrast and depth. A skilled artisan must visualise not only the finished piece but also the uncut stone’s internal layers—an intuitive process that demands years of experience.
Cameos have enjoyed enduring popularity throughout history. During the Renaissance and into the 18th and 19th centuries, demand for cameo jewellery surged. To meet this interest affordably, shell cameos became prevalent. Typically carved in cowrie shells, these feature a white profile against a pink or grey background and are often associated with romantic, neoclassical style.
Like intaglios, cameos often depict mythological subjects, gods, and symbolic imagery. However, cameos shifted more toward the decorative and representational, portraying rulers, muses, and loved ones. One of the most notable enthusiasts of cameos was Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned numerous cameos with his own likeness. These were not just tokens of vanity, but symbols of authority, referencing the Roman Caesars he sought to emulate.
Today, both cameos and intaglios remain highly collectible in the antique jewellery market. Contemporary artisans continue to practice these centuries-old techniques, while collectors seek out both modern and ancient examples. With advanced tools, today’s gem engravers achieve incredible levels of detail, but the timeless appeal of historical pieces—whether for their artistry, symbolism, or talismanic charm—ensures they remain prized additions to modern collections.
