The diamond engagement ring is one of the most recognisable symbols of marriage, but how did diamonds become the gemstone of choice for proposals? Although diamond rings have been associated with engagements for centuries, their popularity owes as much to clever advertising as it does to tradition.
From a royal engagement in 1477 to one of the most successful advertising campaigns of the 20th century, the story of the diamond engagement ring reveals how changing fashions, jewellery design and marketing helped establish a tradition that continues today.
Quick Answer: Why Are Diamond Engagement Rings So Popular? Diamond engagement rings became especially popular during the 20th century, helped by De Beers' famous 1947 advertising slogan, A Diamond Is Forever. Although diamonds had been used in engagement jewellery for centuries, the campaign helped establish them as the preferred gemstone for proposals, linking diamonds with lasting love and commitment.
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When Did Diamond Engagement Rings Become Popular?
The history of diamond engagement rings stretches back hundreds of years, although their widespread popularity is a much more recent development.
Date
Key moment
1477
Archduke Maximilian of Austria presents a diamond ring to Mary of Burgundy, one of the earliest documented examples of a diamond engagement ring
19th century
Diamond jewellery becomes more accessible as diamond production and international trade expand
1947
De Beers introduces the slogan A Diamond Is Forever
Mid-20th century
Diamond engagement rings become increasingly established as a popular choice for couples
Today
Diamonds remain a popular option, alongside sapphires, rubies and other coloured gemstones
Who Received the First Diamond Engagement Ring?
One of the earliest recorded diamond engagement rings is associated with Mary of Burgundy, who received a diamond ring from Archduke Maximilian of Austria in 1477. The gift is frequently described as the first diamond engagement ring, although historians cannot establish that no earlier examples existed.
At the time, diamonds were rare and expensive, making them accessible primarily to royalty and wealthy families. A diamond ring was therefore a demonstration of status and wealth as well as a symbol of a proposed marriage. It would take several more centuries before diamond engagement rings became a familiar choice for a much wider audience.
How Did De Beers Make Diamond Engagement Rings Popular?
The modern popularity of diamond engagement rings is closely connected to the diamond industry's advertising campaigns during the 20th century. Following a period of weakened demand, De Beers sought to encourage consumers to see diamonds as an essential part of the engagement tradition.
The company worked with New York advertising agency N. W. Ayer & Son to develop campaigns that would strengthen the association between diamonds, romance and marriage. Rather than concentrating solely on the appearance or monetary value of diamonds, the advertising focused on what a diamond represented: love, commitment and permanence.
This approach helped transform the diamond engagement ring from a luxury purchase into a widely recognised romantic tradition.
Who Came Up With 'A Diamond Is Forever'?
The famous slogan A Diamond Is Forever was created in 1947 by advertising copywriter Frances Gerety, who worked at N. W. Ayer & Son. According to the story often told about its creation, Gerety was working late into the night when she came up with the phrase. She reportedly wrote it down before going to bed, without initially recognising how influential it would become.
The four-word slogan connected the physical durability of a diamond with the idea of lasting love. Its influence extended well beyond jewellery advertising. In 1999, Advertising Age named A Diamond Is Forever the advertising slogan of the 20th century. The campaign was enormously successful in helping establish diamonds as the traditional choice for engagement rings, particularly in the United States and other major jewellery markets.
Why Are Diamonds Used in Engagement Rings?
Diamonds have several qualities that make them suitable for engagement jewellery. Their brilliance and ability to reflect light give them a distinctive appearance, while their hardness makes them particularly resistant to scratching. Diamonds rank 10 on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness, making them the hardest naturally occurring mineral.
This durability is useful for jewellery intended to be worn regularly, although diamond rings can still suffer damage from impacts or wear to their settings. Diamonds are also available in a variety of cuts and shapes, allowing engagement rings to reflect different tastes and styles.
What Is the Most Popular Diamond Cut for an Engagement Ring?
The round brilliant-cut diamond is one of the most popular choices for engagement rings. Its carefully arranged facets are designed to maximise the diamond's interaction with light, producing the brilliance and sparkle for which the cut is known.
However, round brilliant-cut diamonds are only one of many possibilities.
Oval-Cut Diamond Engagement Rings
Oval-cut diamonds offer an elongated shape with brilliant-style faceting. Their proportions can create the appearance of a larger diamond across the finger, making them a popular alternative to traditional round designs.
Pear-Shaped Diamond Engagement Rings
Pear-shaped diamonds combine a rounded end with a tapering point, creating a distinctive teardrop outline.
They can be worn with the point facing towards or away from the hand, offering different visual effects depending on the setting.
Asscher-Cut Diamond Engagement Rings
The Asscher cut was developed in the early 20th century and is recognised for its square shape, cropped corners and stepped facets.
Unlike the lively sparkle of a round brilliant-cut diamond, the Asscher cut creates broad flashes of light and a distinctive geometric appearance. Its strong lines make it particularly associated with Art Deco jewellery, although Asscher-cut diamonds continue to feature in contemporary engagement rings.
Do Engagement Rings Have to Contain Diamonds?
Despite the popularity of diamonds, there is no rule that an engagement ring must contain one. Coloured gemstones have a long history in engagement jewellery, offering an alternative for those who prefer a particular colour, design or historical style.
Sapphires and rubies are particularly suitable options because of their hardness and durability.
Both gemstones belong to the mineral family corundum, which ranks 9 on the Mohs scale, immediately below diamond.
Sapphire Engagement Rings
Blue sapphires are among the best-known alternatives to diamonds. Their rich colour has made them a popular choice in both antique and contemporary engagement jewellery, particularly when surrounded by diamonds in a cluster setting.
Although blue is the colour most commonly associated with sapphires, the gemstone also occurs in pink, yellow, green and other colours.
Ruby Engagement Rings
Rubies are the red variety of corundum, valued for their colour and historical association with love and passion. A ruby engagement ring can provide a striking alternative to a traditional diamond design, particularly when paired with diamonds or mounted in yellow gold.
Pink and Yellow Sapphire Engagement Rings
For those looking beyond traditional blue sapphires, pink and yellow varieties offer further possibilities. Their colour can provide the focal point of a ring, while diamond surrounds or shoulders can add contrast and brilliance.
Antique and Vintage Engagement Rings
Although modern diamond engagement rings are often associated with solitaire designs, antique and vintage jewellery offers a much wider range of styles. Victorian rings may feature coloured gemstones, decorative goldwork and combinations of diamonds with other stones. Edwardian jewellery often favoured delicate settings, platinum and diamond arrangements that created a light, intricate appearance.
Art Deco rings introduced bold geometry, contrasting gemstones and distinctive diamond cuts, including emerald and Asscher cuts. Choosing an antique or vintage engagement ring offers the opportunity to find a piece that reflects the jewellery design of a particular period.
Department
Jewellery
Choosing an Engagement Ring
The popularity of diamond engagement rings may have been shaped by advertising, but the choice of an engagement ring remains a personal one. While the round brilliant-cut diamond is a familiar choice, different diamond shapes, antique settings and coloured gemstones offer alternatives.
A sapphire or ruby may appeal to someone who prefers colour, while an Asscher-cut diamond may suit those drawn to geometric jewellery design. For collectors and buyers, understanding the history of different styles can be just as useful as considering the gemstones themselves.
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Specialist
Sarah Duncan
Head of Jewellery | London
Frequently Asked Questions About Diamond Engagement Rings
Diamond engagement rings became increasingly popular during the 20th century, particularly following advertising campaigns by De Beers that associated diamonds with marriage and lasting love.
No single person can be definitively credited with inventing the diamond engagement ring. One of the earliest documented examples dates to 1477, when Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave a diamond ring to Mary of Burgundy.
Advertising copywriter Frances Gerety created the slogan in 1947 while working for N. W. Ayer & Son on the De Beers advertising account.
Diamonds became strongly associated with romantic commitment through centuries of jewellery tradition and, particularly, 20th-century advertising that connected their durability with lasting relationships.
The round brilliant cut remains one of the most popular diamond shapes for engagement rings, although oval, pear, cushion, emerald and Asscher cuts are also widely used.
Yes. Sapphires rank 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, making them a durable choice for jewellery intended for regular wear.
Rubies are also a durable choice, sharing the same mineral family and hardness as sapphires. As with any gemstone ring, the setting and condition should be considered for everyday wear.
Antique engagement rings offer distinctive designs, craftsmanship and gemstones from different periods. Buyers should consider the condition of the ring, security of its settings and suitability for regular wear.