Jewellery

Jewellery by JAR

4 April 2025

Sarah Duncan

Joel Arthur Rosenthal, better known as JAR, is one of the most celebrated yet elusive contemporary jewellers. ⁠JAR’s designs are instantly recognisable for his use of striking colour combinations.

On Wednesday 09 April, our London Jewellery auction features an eye-catching pair of aluminium flower earclips that were produced for the exhibition The Jewels of JAR, Paris which opened in November 2002 at the Gilbert Collection in Somerset House, London⁠.

Born in New York in 1943, he studied art history and philosophy at Harvard University before moving to Paris, where he briefly worked in the film industry, as a textile designer and as an apprentice at Bulgari. It was in Paris that Rosenthal’s artistic vision took shape, leading him to establish his jewellery house, JAR, in 1977 on the Place Vendôme with his partner Pierre Jeannet.⁠

London Jewellery

Explore our Wednesday 09 April auction.

JAR: A pair of aluminium flower earclips, 2002

Each deep purple pansy of anodised aluminium, signed JAR, clip fittings, length 3.1cm, maker's pouch

£3,000 - £5,000 + fees

Unlike traditional luxury brands, JAR operates with an air of mystery. There is no shop window, no mass production and no advertising. Rosenthal creates only a limited number of pieces each year, often for a select clientele who receive an invitation to acquire his work. In 2002 it was estimated that only around 250 people worldwide actually owned a work created by JAR. His jewellery has never been readily available for public sale; to visit his atelier at 7 Place Vendôme one must apply and be welcomed in, making JAR pieces highly sought after at auction.

From 2002 to early 2003 the Gilbert Collection at Somerset House, London hosted the exhibition 'The Jewels of JAR, Paris'. The exhibition consisted of 400 pieces created by the American born, French based master jeweller Joel Arthur Rosenthal. At the time of the exhibition, it was estimated that only around 250 people worldwide actually owned a work created by JAR. 145 of them lent their pieces to the exhibition. So secretive was the source of many of the jewels that photography was not permitted on at least half the exhibits.⁠
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Guests of the exhibition toured rooms in complete darkness making their way with a torch in hand. To view the displays, the viewer must literally shine their light on them, making each viewing experience unique and private. A series of four styles of aluminium and gold floral earclips were specially created for the exhibition for purchase. Retailing then at just £250 each. This pair was purchased by the vendor in November 2002, during the exhibition. ⁠