Both originating from Orkney, Ola Gorie and Sheila Fleet are names synonymous with modern Scottish jewellery.
Ola Gorie was the first graduate from the jewellery department at Gray’s School of Art in Aberdeen in 1960, returning to Orkney thereafter. Her jewellery has Norse, Celtic and naturalistic motifs throughout, with collections named Skara Brae, Celtic Secrets and Ness of Brodgar to name a few. Still managed by family members, Ola Gorie retired in 1997 and has left a legacy with numerous commissions including for the Queen Mother, the House of Commons and the British Museum.
Lot 108 | An enamel, diamond and pink sapphire 'Wave' pendant, by Sheila Fleet | (2) Length of pendant: 3.4cm | £800 - £1,200 + fees
Like Ola Gorie, Sheila Fleet, takes inspiration from her Orkney home. Graduating from Edinburgh College of Art in 1963, a near contemporary of Ola Gorie, she first moved to London and worked for various jewellery companies. Sheila eventually returned to Orkney to work for the jeweller Ortak as their first professional designer and modelmaker and it wasn’t until 1993 that she opened her own shop and has been the sole designer ever since. Taking inspiration from her surroundings with collections named, The Sea, The Land, Tradition etc, hand painted enamels and gem set pieces help to evoke the movement and colours of the Scottish landscape in her designs.
Lot 107 | A diamond 'Skyran She' brooch and matching earrings, by Sheila Fleet | (2) Width of brooch: 3.8cm | £500 - £700 + fees
Nestled in the hills of Perthshire, Malcolm Appleby’s admiration of nature can also be seen in his work. Since 1969, Malcolm has been settled in Scotland and is regarded as one of the finest chaser and engravers working today. His signature style can be found on pieces as diverse as cufflinks, jewellery, silverware and shotguns. Commissions such as the orb in the Prince of Wales coronet in 1969 cemented his reputation early on in his career. With a cup and cover commissioned for National Museums Scotland and a centrepiece for Bute House, the residence of The First Minister of Scotland, pieces by Malcolm are highly sought after and synonymous with contemporary Scottish jewellery and silversmithing.
Lot 110 | § An 18ct gold brooch, by Malcolm Appleby | Diameter: 8.4cm | £1,800 - £2,500 + fees
All three have been acknowledged for their contribution to the industry by the Queen with MBEs awarded to both Ola Gorie and Malcolm Appleby and an OBE awarded to Sheila Fleet.
Lot 109 | § A pair of 18ct gold cufflinks, by Malcolm Appleby | Diameter of principal terminal: 2.1cm | £1,000 - £1,500 + fees
Lots 103-110 in our sale are all exceptional examples of their style, and presents an exciting opportunity to acquire 18ct gold examples of their work, which are seen at auction less often.
Lyon & Turnbull's team of jewellery specialists’ - including gemmologists Ruth Davis and Charlotte Peel - extensive knowledge and experience of the current market provides the essential combination for the successful sales of both modern and antique jewellery; from fine Edwardian and Victorian pearls, through classic diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds from the houses of Cartier, Boucheron, Bulgari and Tiffany, all the way to the outrageously decadent designs of Grima and the understated, elegant works of Jensen.
RUTH DAVIS | HEAD OF JEWELLERY & SILVER, SCOTLAND
ruth.davis@lyonandturnbull.com