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Why the Omega Speedmaster Became the Moonwatch

19 May 2026

Charles Tearle

Few watches hold the cultural and horological significance of the Omega Speedmaster. Known worldwide as the “Moonwatch”, the Speedmaster earned its reputation not through marketing, but through performance under some of the harshest testing conditions ever devised.

Today, vintage Omega Speedmaster watches remain among the most sought-after collector’s watches at auction, prized for their links to space exploration, their mechanical innovation, and the subtle variations that distinguish one reference from another.

The Omega Speedmaster and NASA Testing

Before the Omega Speedmaster became synonymous with the Moon landings, it was one of several watches submitted to NASA for testing for use in space. The testing process was notoriously rigorous, exposing watches to extreme temperatures, shock, vibration and pressure changes.

The Speedmaster surpassed the competing models in terms of reliability and performance, ultimately becoming the watch selected by NASA astronauts for manned space missions.

Its reputation extended beyond collectors and enthusiasts. Former astronauts themselves have often spoken about their admiration for the Speedmaster, praising its durability, legibility and dependability in extraordinary conditions.

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Why Collectors Love Vintage Omega Speedmasters

Vintage Omega Speedmasters continue to attract strong international interest at auction. Collectors are drawn not only to the watch’s association with the Apollo missions, but also to the subtle evolution of its references, movements and dial variations through the 1960s and beyond.

Among the most desirable examples are early references featuring the celebrated calibre 321 movement, widely admired for its engineering and historical importance.

The “Ed White” Speedmaster

One of the most iconic vintage Speedmaster models is the reference commonly known as the “Ed White”, named after astronaut Ed White, the first American to walk in space.

These watches are particularly prized for their use of the calibre 321 movement and their direct connection to the golden age of space exploration. Examples with original components and strong provenance remain highly sought after by collectors worldwide.

The Omega Speedmaster Reference 145.012

The reference 145.012, produced during the late 1960s, represents one of the final Speedmaster references to use the calibre 321 movement before Omega transitioned to the calibre 861.

Collectors often look closely at details such as dial configuration, bezel type and caseback engraving, all of which can significantly affect rarity and desirability.

Rare Racing Dial Speedmasters

Among the rarest vintage Omega Speedmasters are examples fitted with the distinctive “racing dial”, featuring striking red accents designed to improve legibility.

Certain racing dial Speedmasters produced for the UK market are exceptionally scarce, with only a small number known to have appeared publicly at auction. These watches occupy a particularly important place within Speedmaster collecting and continue to generate significant interest among enthusiasts.

The 1969 Moonwatch Caseback

The reference 145.022 introduced the calibre 861 movement and became one of the defining Moonwatch references.

Collectors are especially interested in 1969 examples, the first year Omega engraved the famous caseback inscription commemorating the Moon landing: “The First Watch Worn on the Moon”

Early versions featured straight text formatting before later examples adopted the more familiar curved engraving. These subtle distinctions are closely studied within the vintage watch community and can add considerable collector appeal.

Collecting Omega Speedmasters Today

From early calibre 321 references to rare racing dial variants and transitional Moonwatch models, the Omega Speedmaster remains one of the most important and collectible chronographs ever produced.

Its long lasting desirability lies in the combination of technical achievement, historical significance and endlessly fascinating detail. Whether admired for its role in the space race or collected for its design and mechanical innovation, the Speedmaster continues to occupy a unique position in the world of vintage watches and watch auctions.

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Watches

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Charles Tearle

Head of Watches