WATCHES

From the Trench to the Auction House: Military Watches

5 May 2025

Charles Tearle

Before the First World War, pocket watches were the standard timekeeping tool for the discerning gentleman. Wristwatches—then often dismissed as delicate or effeminate—had not yet gained widespread acceptance. However, the brutal conditions of trench warfare soon reshaped both fashion and function.

Soldiers began fastening small fob watches to their wrists using bootlaces or leather straps, allowing them to consult the time without fumbling through layers of mud-sodden uniform. These modified timepieces, often fitted with mesh guards to protect their fragile enamel dials, came to be known as “trench watches.”

The practical superiority of wristwatches became undeniable. By the outbreak of the Second World War, wristwatches had supplanted pocket watches as the norm for both civilian and military wear. Recognising their utility, the British Ministry of Defence (MoD) developed rigorous specifications for military-issue timepieces—criteria that would push the Swiss watchmaking industry into a period of focused innovation

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The “Dirty Dozen” and the Rise of the Military Wristwatch

The MoD commissioned twelve Swiss manufacturers—later dubbed the “Dirty Dozen”—to produce military-grade wristwatches. These timepieces, known as Watch, Wrist, Waterproof (W.W.W.), were engineered for endurance. Shared characteristics included black dials with luminous Arabic numerals and hands, small seconds subdials, unbreakable crystals, and engraved military codes on the reverse. Circular metal cases and fixed strap bars ensured durability in the most demanding conditions.

Hundreds of thousands of these watches were issued, and they have since become sought-after relics of mid-century design and military history. As Allied forces outfitted their armies, navies, and air forces, each branch demanded specialist timepieces: chronographs for pilots, oversized luminous models for naval divers, and shock-resistant time-only watches for ground troops.

The Rolex “MilSub”: A Tool Watch with Provenance

One of the most iconic military timepieces is the Rolex Military Submariner, or "MilSub." These watches were commissioned by the British MoD between 1972 and 1979 for use by elite units such as the Special Air Service (SAS) and the Special Boat Service (SBS). While based on the commercial Ref. 5513 Submariner, MilSubs incorporated a range of military-specific modifications.

These included hacking seconds, oversized luminous “sword” hands, full 60-minute bezel graduations, fixed strap bars, and satin-finished cases. Dials bore an encircled ‘T’ indicating tritium luminescence, and the reverse was engraved with issue numbers, military codes, and the NATO identifier “0552/923-7697.” In many cases, serial numbers were also duplicated on the inside of the case back.

Due to the harsh conditions in which they were used, few MilSubs survive in their original, unaltered configuration. Over time, case backs were sometimes switched or modified, and fixed strap bars were removed to accommodate metal bracelets. Today, original-spec examples, particularly those with verifiable provenance from a diver or serviceman, are extremely rare and highly prized.

A Market Reclaimed

Military-issued watches have expanded beyond their functional origins to become powerful objects of cultural and historical significance. Their association with service and durability has attracted collectors from across the globe, leading to robust demand at auction. Watches that were once unobtainable on the open market—intended solely for military personnel—now command considerable sums.

Among the most revered is the MilSub, which can achieve six-figure prices at auction. Once regarded as a practical tool, it is now an artefact of 20th-century design and warfare—worn quietly, yet recognised by the few who truly understand the language of horology.

As interest in military timepieces continues to grow, it is perhaps time to revisit family heirlooms. That unassuming black-dialled watch, marked with a Broad Arrow on the back, may well have a story worth telling—and selling.

Thank you to Mike Hall for his support with this article.