With financial support from the art dealer Alexander Reid and ship-owner and collector William Burrell, both of Glasgow, Hornel and Henry set sail from Liverpool in February 1893 and arrived in Nagasaki in April; they were to return to Scotland after eighteen months away. As Europeans, they were required by law to live in within the confines of the ‘Concessions’. However, by working as house agents for some time, they were able to gain access to wider aspects of the country and its residents.
Hornel delighted in direct contact with Japanese culture and the trip proved to be a turning-point in his oeuvre. As can be seen in A Japanese Tea Garden, he revelled in the customs, clothing and decorative schemes that he witnessed. Richly evocative paintings, teeming with luminous colour and beguiling detail were realised in thickly applied oil paint, and met a triumphant reception when exhibited at Reid’s gallery La Société des Beaux-Arts in 1895. All but one of the forty-four works sold. The critic of the Glasgow Evening News exclaimed:
“Though lust of the eye is his first and last consideration he has deigned to be more intelligible in form and incident than ever before; and to most people, we fancy, those scenes of a sunny and apparently happy land of tearooms, gardens, cherry blossoms…dancing girls, samisens and junks will have even a literary appeal…There is not in the collection a single picture commonplace or feeble. They are all without exception strong, original, impressive, balanced and complete.” (Glasgow Evening News, 25 April 1895). Such was the impact of the trip that Hornel returned to Japan in 1922 and established a garden in the Japanese style at his home, Broughton House in Kirkcudbright.