Watches

A Beginner's Guide to Watch Collecting

30 October 2025

Natasha Nixon

What Should Your First Watch Be?

If you are new to watch collecting, one question tends to come up before any other: what should I buy?

It is a simple question, but not necessarily an easy one to answer. The modern watch market is vast, encompassing everything from vintage Rolex sports watches and classic Cartier designs to contemporary independent makers and affordable everyday timepieces. For newcomers, the sheer variety can feel overwhelming. The good news is that there is no single right answer.

While experienced collectors may focus on rarity, provenance or technical specifications, the best first watch is usually much simpler than that. It is the watch that catches your eye, the one you keep returning to in catalogues and shop windows, or the model that lingers in your mind long after you've seen it.

Start With What You Like

One of the most common mistakes new collectors make is focusing too heavily on what they think they should buy.

Watch collecting is full of opinions. Ask ten collectors for advice and you may receive ten different answers. Some will tell you to buy Rolex. Others will champion Omega, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre or Seiko. Some will insist on vintage watches, while others prefer contemporary models.

The most important thing is that you genuinely like the watch.

After all, it is going to spend most of its life on your wrist. Whether you are drawn to the clean lines of a Cartier Tank, the rugged practicality of a Rolex Submariner or the understated elegance of an Omega Constellation, personal taste should always be the starting point.

Where possible, try watches on before making a purchase. A watch that looks perfect in photographs may feel entirely different when worn. Size, weight and comfort can all influence your decision.

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Understanding Watch Movements

Once you've identified a style or brand that appeals to you, the next consideration is the movement.

Broadly speaking, there are two main categories: mechanical and quartz.

Mechanical Watches

Mechanical watches are powered by a complex system of springs, gears and levers. They can be either manually wound or automatic, meaning they wind themselves through the movement of the wearer's wrist. For many collectors, the appeal of a mechanical watch lies in its craftsmanship. These miniature machines represent centuries of horological development and continue to fascinate enthusiasts today.

Owning a mechanical watch is often compared to owning a classic car. It may require occasional maintenance, but much of the enjoyment comes from appreciating the engineering behind it.

Quartz Watches

Quartz watches are battery-powered and generally offer greater accuracy and convenience.

Introduced on a large scale during the 1970s, quartz technology transformed watch ownership by making reliable timekeeping more accessible than ever before.

While some collectors favour mechanical watches, many iconic designs have been produced with quartz movements. Cartier, for example, has created numerous highly desirable quartz watches that continue to perform strongly at auction.

For first-time buyers, quartz can offer an excellent entry point into collecting.

Setting a Budget

Budget is one of the most important aspects of building a collection.

It can be tempting to chase a perceived bargain or stretch beyond what feels comfortable, particularly when researching popular models. However, successful collecting is usually about making informed decisions rather than impulsive purchases.

Before bidding or buying, spend time researching recent auction results and retail values. Understanding the market helps establish realistic expectations and ensures you are comparing like with like. A watch's value is influenced by numerous factors, including condition, rarity, provenance, service history and the presence of original boxes and papers.

Do Your Research

One of the great pleasures of watch collecting is the research itself. Before making a purchase, spend time learning about the watch that interests you. Read the history of the model, understand its place within the manufacturer's catalogue and explore how it has evolved over time.

The Rolex Daytona, for example, has become one of the most recognisable watches in the world. Yet its journey to icon status was far from inevitable. Early examples could be difficult to sell, whereas today many versions command substantial premiums on the secondary market. Understanding these stories adds depth to collecting and often leads to better buying decisions.

Buying Watches at Auction

Auctions can be an excellent way to begin a collection. Unlike retail environments, auctions often present a broad range of brands, styles and price points in a single sale. This allows collectors to compare watches directly and discover models they may not otherwise encounter.

Specialists are also available to answer questions. Whether you want to discuss condition, estimate levels, service history or how a watch wears, never hesitate to ask. The more information you have, the more confident your decision will be.

Auction previews offer a particularly valuable opportunity to examine watches in person and gain a better understanding of their size, quality and overall appeal.

Should You Buy Watches as an Investment?

This is perhaps the most frequently asked question in modern watch collecting. The honest answer is that no one can predict future performance with certainty.

While some watches have appreciated significantly in value, markets rise and fall. Trends change, collecting tastes evolve and today's sought-after model may not always remain at the forefront of demand. Rather than focusing solely on investment potential, many specialists recommend buying watches you genuinely enjoy. If a watch also performs well financially, that is an added bonus. Collectors who derive pleasure from ownership are often the most satisfied, regardless of market fluctuations.

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Natasha Nixon

Sale Coordinator