Rolex. A rare stainless steel automatic wristwatch with helium escape valve and date
Oyster Perpetual SeaDweller Ref.126600, 'first-generation', made in 2017
Estimate: £9,000 - £11,000
Auction: 22 May 2025 from 14:00 BST
Description
Cal.3235 self-winding movement, glass black dial with luminous dot, triangle and baton indexes within white gold surrounds, SEA-DWELLER in red, date aperture under magnifying lens, sapphire crystal, white gold luminous Mercedes hands, centre seconds, stainless steel case with screw-down reverse, screw-down Oyster Triplock crown, helium escape valve to the band, on fitted stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet with Oysterlock clasp featuring quick-adjustment Glidlock and extension. Case, dial and movement signed.
Dimensions
Diameter 43mm, approx. bracelet diameter 200mm.
Provenance
Accompanied by a Rolex presentation case, relevant booklets and 2017 Rolex warranty card.
Footnote
Released in 2017 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Sea-Dweller model, the 126600 was the first reference to be fitted with new Cal.3235 movement featuring 70 hour power reserve among numerous upgrades. Importantly, it was the first, and possibly only, anniversary model from Rolex that gave a nod to the original by printing the SEA-DWELLER in red, as per the exceptionally rare 1967 single-red Sea Dweller models that exist. As the first of its kind, the dial used the standard SWISS MADE designation at the bottom; however, as various models across the range were fitted with new 3235 movement as well, to differentiate this, Rolex used a coronet between Swiss and Made to indicate it had the updated movement. Noticing the 126600 no longer fitted in with this format, within a year, Rolex updated the model to be similarly signed in keeping with the line-up featuring a coronet between Swiss and Made. Only the first examples made in 2017 retained the simpler and more elegant SWISS MADE signature. Considering, when collecting vintage examples, details matter, combined with the relative low production of the Sea Dweller model, it can be assumed the first generation 126600 examples will define themselves as a modern and rare collectable.
Thank you to The Edinburgh Diving Centre for the kind use of their equipment.