Lot 36
A Belle Époque diamond brooch / necklace, circa 1910
Estimate: £4,000 - £6,000
Auction: 23 October 2024 From 14:00 BST
Description
Millegrain set throughout with old brilliant, rose-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, the central segment of finely pierced plumage design, suspending a tassel of collet-set diamonds, to splayed twisted diamond-set suspensory lines, with a diamond-set fan spacer and a trace-link chain, old brilliant and cushion-shaped diamonds approx. 10.90 carats total, lengths: pendant 8.9cm, necklace 42.0cm, fitted case with detachable brooch fitting and screwdriver by Lowe, Successors to Frank Hyams Ld from Dunedin New Zealand, 20 Grafton Street, New Bond St W.
Footnote
This necklace was retailed and possibly made by Ernest J. Lowe of London who in 1905 took over the business of Frank Hyams formerly of Dunedin, New Zealand. Hyams introduced silver and decorative objects set with “Maori Greenstone” (nephrite jade or “pounamu”) into London society. Amongst Hyams clients was Leopold de Rothschild (1845- 1917) who's public appreciation for “greenstone” help propel it to international demand.
Ernest J. Lowe took over the Hyam firm, now based at 128 New Bond Street, in 1905. Even by the mid 1930s Lowe's letterhead listed the firm as “Specialists in Pearls, Diamonds, Precious Stones, New Zealand Greenstone, Oriental Jades”. The exotic nature of this pendant would be fitting for a designer specialising in international taste and gemstones.
The design of this jewel represents the influx of Indian motifs and themes into the highest pedigree of European and British jewellery in the first decades of the 20th century.
