Lot 121
A diamond Sautoir
Auction: 27 May 2004 at 13:00 BST
Description
the large rectangular pendant of open form and pave set diamonds in a geometric setting, (convertible to a brooch and four separate bracelets) suspended from a long diamond pave set neck chain72cm
Dimensions
in a later fitted case
Footnote
The sautoir takes it's name from the way it is worn, originally inspired by French military uniform of the late 18th century where a necklace worn 'en sautoir' would be to wear it diagonally across the chest in a similar way to how a sash is worn
.
Over the years, the sautoir evolved into a long necklace or chain extending down to or below the waist, with a pendant in the form of a plaque or medal and later a tassel.
The sautoir as a piece of Jewellery reached its fashion zenith during the Edwardian era and was often composed of seed pearls, woven or twisted with tassel terminals, their delicacy suiting the stylish and elegant silhouette of the time. In the 1920s the sautoir was a vital accessory and ideally complimented the fashion of wearing low-waisted dresses. It was during that period that differing materials were used in their composition including chain links of diamonds of differing designs but always with the popular geometric style of the Art Deco period. They often suspended geometric pendants, or tassels made of pearls or precious stone beads and often with diamond connections
This wonderful sautoir, which splits to form four separate diamond bracelets and a plaque brooch, is so evocative of the Art Deco period and is a good illustration of the geometric motifs found not only in the Jewellery of that time, but in house furnishings, art works, architecture and clothing.